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William Sitwell reviews The Woodsman, Stratford-upon-Avon: 'A den of pleasure that gives gratuitous feasting a good name’

The Woodsman, Stratford-upon-Avon
Our critic visits Stratford, 
where he finds food and service fit for the gods Credit: Leo Goddard

Among the positive influences of the ancient Romans, somewhere between underfloor heating and democracy, there is hospitality. For the Romans it was sacred. And to make sure there was no doubt about its importance, when Jupiter wasn’t tied up with issues like thunder he watched over ius hospitia, the law of hospitality. So when I come across examples of appalling hospitality I like to imagine Jupiter dishing out a lightning strike 
to offenders.

I’m like the SAS on 
the ground indicating a target for a devastating drone strike. A sour greeting at a restaurant: KAPOW! Sniffy sommelier not letting me pour my own wine: BIFF! Amid the ruins of these lightning strikes I’d feel lessons had been learnt....

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